Regularly check your tire pressure and inspect your tire tread and sidewalls

In addition to maintaining proper inflation pressure, regularly inspect the tire tread and sidewalls for irregular tread wear, cracking, scrapes, bulges, cuts, snags, foreign objects or other damage resulting from use. Remove any stones, glass, foreign objects, etc. embedded in the tread to prevent further damage. Even minor damage can lead to further injury and eventual tire failure. Tires with excessive cracking on the tread or sidewall(s) should be removed from service. This is typically caused by under inflation, over loading, improper storage, and/or improper long-term parking.

Consumers should check their tire tread and sidewall areas during monthly inflation pressure checks, looking for uneven or irregular tread wear or other conditions as noted above. It is recommended that tires, including the spare, be periodically inspected by a tire service professional during routine maintenance intervals such as oil changes and tire rotations.

WHEN INSPECTING YOUR TIRES, LOOK FOR:

Uneven tread wear – This can include more wear on one tread edge than the other, a rippled pattern of high and low wear, or exposed steel wire. Uneven wear can be caused by problems such as under inflation, vehicle misalignment and improper balancing.

Shallow tread – Well worn or bald tires can result in hydroplaning, loss of traction and are more likely to be damaged by potholes and other road hazards. Replace tires when worn to 2/32 inch (1.6 mm) tread depth anywhere on the tread face. To help you see when the tread is worn out, tires have a built in “tread wear indicators.” These are narrow bars of smooth rubber that run across the tread. When the tread is even with the bars, a tire is worn down to 2/32 inch and the tire must be replaced immediately. You can also try the penny test: place a penny in the tire’s most worn groove with Lincoln’s head facing down. If you can see the top of Lincoln’s head, the tire should be replaced.

Troublemakers – Check for small stones, pieces of glass, bits of metal and other foreign objects that might be wedged into the tread and carefully remove them. They can cause serious problems if they are pushed farther into your tire as you drive.

Damaged areas – Cracks, cuts, splits, punctures, holes and bulges in the tread or on the sidewalls of the tire can indicate serious problems, and the tire may need to be replaced.

Slow leaks – Remember that tires lose inflation pressure when the air temperature gets colder (about 1 psi or 7 kPa for every 10°F drop in temperature). Tires may also lose a certain amount of inflation pressure due to their permeability (about 2 psi or 14 kPa per month). However, if you find that you have to add inflation pressure every few days, have the tire, wheel and valve checked by a tire service professional – and if necessary, repair or replace the tire.

Valve caps – Those little caps on your tire’s valve stem keep moisture and dirt out, so make sure they are on all your tires. Also, when you have a tire replaced, have a new valve stem assembly installed at the same time.

Driving on a damaged tire can be dangerous. If you see something you’re not sure about during your inspection, have it examined by your tire service professional. Any time you see damage to a tire, don’t drive on it – use a spare if you need to go somewhere. And finally, pay attention to the “feel” of your tires as you drive. A rough ride may indicate tire damage or excessive wear.

If you notice vibrations or other disturbances while driving, and/or you suspect possible damage to your tire or vehicle, immediately reduce speed, drive with caution until you can safely pull off the road and stop, and inspect our tires. If a tire is damaged, deflate it and replace it with your spare. If you do not see any tire damage and cannot identify the source of the vibration, have the vehicle towed to a mechanic or tire dealer for a thorough inspection.

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Ways to make your car last longer

As one of the biggest purchases you’ll ever make, it makes sense to take care of your car so it lasts as long as possible. Here’s ten things you can do to prolong its life, and save yourself a few dollars along the way.

1. Keep It Serviced

Probably the most obvious one on the list, but also one that’s often overlooked. Modern cars can easily exceed their scheduled service intervals without you actually noticing – but the reality is that you’re doing your engine no favors by neglecting it.

Always stick to the recommended service intervals, and there’s no harm in performing them a few hundred miles early or more frequently if you’re planning to keep the car for a long time. A well maintained car will not only last longer, but it will also be more fuel efficient, have better performance, and hold its resale value better.

2. Don’t Ignore Issues

Can you hear a knocking noise over bumps that wasn’t there before? Maybe there’s a bit of a grinding sensation when you go around left hand turns?

Don’t just turn up the stereo and hope it will fix itself – it won’t. A neglected wheel bearing that has started to go bad can cause the hub to overheat, which can cause damage to the CV joint and a much larger and more expensive repair.

A radiator fan that’s on the blink could cause the car to overheat in traffic, which can blow the head gasket… There are lots of examples of components failing that can have snowballing effects.

If you think something’s on the way out don’t wait to find out what happens when it fails!

3. Don’t Skimp On Oil

Oil is the lifeblood of the engine, and old contaminated oil will shorten its life. Don’t use cheap oil, always go with the manufactures recommendations, and never exceed the oil change intervals.

When you change the oil always replace the oil filter. For added benefit, rather than using an engine flush (which can be overly harsh on some engines), consider refilling with a cheaper oil, then changing again after a couple of hundred mile with quality name brand oil.

If that sounds like a load of work, perhaps you should look into buying a vacuum oil extractor – It makes oil changes a quick and painless affair as the oil is extracted through the dipstick tube, rather than messing around underneath the car.

4. Keep It Clean

It may sound a bit dumb, but keeping your car clean will prolong its life. Dirt and grime encourage rust (particularly in the winter months with salt on the roads). While your car may have a galvanized body, few of the components in the under carriage are rust resistant. Bushings, and suspension components will have a shorter life expectancy if they’re neglected and left covered in muck – so get out there with the hose and keep it clean, even the parts you can’t see!

Keeping the paintwork in tip top condition with regular washes, and occasional polish/wax sessions will also add to the car’s resale value. Finally, never leave bird droppings on your paintwork – remove it as soon as you see it. It will eat through the paintwork and leave permanent damage behind.

5. Warm Up

The most damage is caused to an engine when you start it from cold. Cold oil is less viscous, and it is all just sitting in the oil pan when you start the motor. First, it needs to be pumped around the engine to lubricate that parts, but secondly, it has to get warm before it becomes effective.

Getting the engine up to temperature quickly is good for the engine, so contrary to popular opinion, don’t start it up and leave it idling. It will take forever to warm up a cold engine when it’s not under any load (particularly if it’s a diesel).

The best practice it to start the engine, let it idle for just 30-60 seconds to allow the oil to circulate, then drive gently for the first few miles until the engine is up to its normal working temperature. Never rev the motor excessively when cold. Once the temperature needle starts to move, or the heater blows warm, you are free to drive normally.

6. Cool Down

This is most important for cars with a turbocharger. If you’ve driven ‘enthusiastically’ at higher revs the turbo will be hot – very hot! So for the last couple of miles of your journey drive ‘off-boost’ as if you are taking your mom to the store.

This allows everything to circulate and cool down, rather than switching off a scorching hot engine, which can shorten the life of the bearings in the turbo by cooking the oil.

You don’t want to just let it sit there idling either, as the lack of airflow will make the engine bay heat up. It’s less of an issue on modern cars with water-cooled turbos but it’s still smart to always start and end your journey with gentle driving.

7. Gears or Brakes

A wise man once said “brakes are cheaper than a gearbox”. If you’re in the habit of slowing your car down by shifting through the gears, consider altering your driving style to rely on the brakes more than engine braking. It’s still fine to do so, but just be mindful that it puts extra stress on the gearbox and the clutch.

To keep the transmission in good shape, changing up through the gears is best done smoothly by matching the revs when possible, and not quick shifting like you are running the quarter mile!

8. Regular Check Ups

Preventative maintenance is never a bad thing. Familiarize yourself with your car and the engine bay – remove the plastic engine cover (if there is one) and have a good look at all the hoses and wires.

Look for fluid leaks, and oily residue that could point to a leaking gasket. You don’t need to be a mechanic to know when something looks wrong.

Check the car every couple of weeks as a minimum, including tire pressures and fluid levels and bring anything suspicious to the notice of your mechanic.

9. Thorough Workout

While it stands to reason that sensible driving is best for a car’s life expectancy, driving gently all the time can actually be a bad thing!

Known by many as the ‘Italian Tune Up’ a dose of spirited driving can actually be beneficial. On older engines it can help to remove carbon deposits, and on diesel engines it is needed to clean the Diesel Particulate Filters (DPFs). Get out on the highway when there isn’t a lot of traffic and drive at medium to high rpm for a period of time to blow out the cobwebs, and regenerate the DPFs.

10. Lighten the load

What’s in your trunk or cargo area? If you’re like most people you’ll be carrying more than your fair share of junk around with you. The heavier the car, the more stress there will be on the mechanical and suspension components, not to mention the engine.

While we’re not talking about massive gains, it makes sense to ensure you’re not carrying about unnecessary extra weight. If nothing else you may get a couple of extra mpg out of the engine!

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How to Stay Safe in Traffic

Getting through those delays with minimal frustration usually relies more on human behavior than digital innovation

Automakers are constantly coming up with technologies to reduce accidents in daily driving. But the reality remains that accidents, road construction and other factors will inevitably tie us up in delays. Getting through those delays with minimal frustration usually relies more on human behavior than digital innovation.

You need to understand what you can control and what you cannot control,” says Patrick Barrett, a former president of the North American Professional Driver Education Association. “There are six factors that affect driving: the road, the weather, the traffic, the time of day, the vehicle and the driver. Guess which of these you have the most control over? Yes, it’s you, the driver.

With that in mind, here are some steps you can take to stay safe on the road:

  • Allow space for merging. Nearly all long delays require vehicles in a blocked lane to move into a free-flowing one. What keeps this from happening? Motorists’ perception that it’s dangerous to merge. “You need to kindly leave enough space to signal that it’s fine to merge into your lane,” says expert Daniel Gray.
  • Avoid excessive “lane jumping.” As bad as a jam can be, drivers who incessantly shift from one line of vehicles to another only increase the length of the backup. “You want to focus on the path of least resistance,” says Barrett, who has authored books on driver safety and markets driver-ed tools for parents at DriverEdinaBox.com. “This is the path that lets you move and lets you see. But this doesn’t mean you constantly lane-jump. Often, choosing the path of least resistance means choosing to stay in your lane.”
  • Chill out. Keep in mind that traffic happens and there’s really very little you can do about it. Cursing, fuming and honking will only elevate your sense of frustration and potentially create unnecessary trouble. “Remember that you’re not the only one who is late for something,” Gray says, “and that you’re no more special than the person in the next vehicle.”
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Check your tire inflation pressures, before going on a long trip

Never set tire inflation pressures below the recommended inflation pressure found on the vehicle tire placard

The recommended inflation pressures for tires are specified in pounds per square inch (psi) or kilopascals (kPa) as indicated on the vehicle tire placard, certification label or in the owner’s manual.

Never set tire inflation pressures below the recommended inflation pressure found on the vehicle tire placard, certification label or owner’s manual. Underinflation causes excessive heat build-up and internal structural damage that may lead to a tire failure, including tread/belt separation, even at a later date. Do not exceed the maximum inflation pressure shown on the tire sidewall. Over inflated tires (over the maximum molded on the tire sidewall) are more likely to be cut, punctured or damaged by sudden impact from hitting an obstacle, such as a pothole.

Proper Inflation is Critical

Inflation pressure enables a tire to support the load and to control the vehicle, therefore proper inflation is critical. With the right amount of inflation pressure, the vehicle and the tires will achieve their optimum performance. In addition to tire safety, this means your tires will wear longer and improve vehicle fuel consumption. Note that some vehicles may have different cold inflation pressures for tires on the front and rear axles.

Operating a vehicle with just one tire under inflated by 8 psi (56 kPa) can reduce the life of the tire by 9,000 miles and can increase the vehicle’s fuel consumption by 4%.

Tires driven even a short distance while underinflated may be damaged beyond repair. Running a tire underinflated is like running the vehicle’s engine without enough oil or coolant. It may seem to work fine for a time, but serious permanent damage has occurred. Adding oil or coolant won’t repair engine damage, and adding inflation pressure won’t fix tire damage. The tire will remain seriously damaged and can still fail, even after inflation pressure is corrected.

It is impossible to determine whether radial tires are properly inflated just by looking at them. You must use a tire gauge to properly check the inflation pressure. Motorists should have their own gauge and keep it in the vehicle.

Checking Tire Pressure

Check your tire inflation pressures, including the spare, at least once a month and before going on a long trip. Tire pressure should be measured when tires are cold – that is, they have not been driven on. Otherwise, your tires may have heated up, increasing the inflation pressure inside them by several pounds. This is normal. Never “bleed” or reduce the inflation pressure in a hot tire.

Remember that tires lose pressure when the air temperature gets colder (about 1 psi or 7kPa for every 10°F drop in temperature). Tires may also lose a certain amount of pressure due to their permeability (about 2 psi or 14 kPa per month).

Failure to maintain correct inflation pressure may result in rapid wear and uneven tread wear, improper vehicle handling and excessive heat buildup, which may result in tire failure. (Evidence of a continuous leak or repeated underinflation requires tire removal and expert inspection.)

Tire Pressure Monitoring Systems (TPMS)

It is still important to check inflation pressure at least once a month, even on vehicles that are equipped with a TPMS. Tire pressure monitoring systems are designed to be beneficial and accurate. However, a TPMS should not be solely relied on for inflation pressure maintenance since some systems may have limitations, such as:

  • Lack of warning of low inflation pressure until one or more tires are as much as 25% below the vehicle manufacturer recommendations.
  • May only detect inflation pressure differences between tires (in other words, if all tires are losing inflation pressure at the same rate, it is possible that the TPMS will not adequately warn of inflation pressure loss).
  • May not warn of rapid inflation pressure loss in a single tire.

Underinflation (prior to a TPMS warning) is increasingly dangerous at high speeds, heavy vehicle loads, extended distances and at high ambient temperatures.

Tire Inflation with Nitrogen

One of the most important factors in tire care is maintaining proper inflation pressure, regardless of the inflation gas. Nitrogen is an inert (non-flammable) gas – basically, nothing more than dry air with the oxygen removed (air contains about 78% nitrogen). Nitrogen inflation does not harm tires nor does it affect the warranty.

Proper tire inflation, whether nitrogen or normal air, helps tires wear longer, saves fuel, and helps prevent accidents. Under inflation, regardless of the inflation gas, can make it harder to steer and stop your vehicle, result in loss of vehicle control, cause sudden tire destruction, and lead to serious injury or death. Nitrogen and air can be mixed in any and all proportions. Nitrogen filled tires can and should have air added whenever nitrogen is not readily available, to maintain proper inflation as specified by the vehicle manufacturer.

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Top Maintenance Tips To Prepare Your Car For Holiday Driving

Hitting the road when you are on holiday is almost a requirement. After all, who wants to sit in their living room when you are free from work? Unfortunately, hitting the road is not as simple as turning the key and leaving. If you neglect your car, it may turn on you at the worst possible time.

There is no way to predict or prevent every issue that can occur while you are motoring through the countryside, but there are several maintenance items or car parts that you can take care of before leaving. Performing the maintenance tips listed below could be the difference between a relaxing holiday and two weeks spent in a boring town waiting for your car to be repaired.

Motor Oil

Checking your motor oil is one of the easiest items on our list. First up, look to see when it was last changed. If you are due or nearly so; then, by all means, do so. If not, at least check the level. In general, it’s best to follow the manufacturers recommendations as to what oil to use, but there are exceptions. If you plan to travel in extremely hot conditions or will be pulling a trailer or boat, a fully synthetic engine oil may be better for you. Full synthetic oils offer better thermal protection.

Gearbox and Differential Fluids

Have you ever changed the gearbox filter and fluid? You should check your owner’s manual for the right change intervals, but if your gearbox is shifting hard, you may want to have the service performed before leaving on holiday. While you are crawling around under your vehicle, look at the grease points. They are often neglected, but need to be filled at least once a year.

Hoses/Belts/Engine Coolant/Battery

Pop the bonnet and get to work. The first thing to do is look at all of the hoses. They are regularly exposed to temperatures near the boiling point, so they can easily wear out. If the high temperature doesn’t get them, dry rot can. Look for cracks or bulges. The most vulnerable spots are where the hoses connect to the engine and radiator. Be sure to check the heater hoses that run from the thermostat to the firewall as well. If you are going on an extremely long trip, going where there are few towns, or into hot temperatures; you may want to take spare hoses with you.

In most modern cars, there is a single belt that drives everything. The exception being some newer Toyota Prius’ that do not have a belt of any kind under the bonnet. That aside, look for fraying or cracks. If any are present, change your belt before leaving. If you hear a loud screech as you pull from a stop, your belt is probably loose. Pop the bonnet and press on the belt. If it moves more than a few millimeters when you press with two fingers between two pulleys, then tighten the belt.

Newer cars are equipped with engine coolant designed to last for at least 100,000 km. If your car is less than four years old, be sure to check that the coolant reservoir is topped up. If you are relying on an older ride, test the coolant to be sure it is still capable of handling high temperatures.

While you are under the bonnet, look at the battery. Be sure the terminals are corrosion-free and that all connections are tight. If it’s not a maintenance-free battery, have the electrolytes tested. If it is sealed, check the output voltage.

Tires

You are looking for two issues with your tires. The first is the condition of the tread and sidewalls. New tires have approximately 4 mm of tread depth. If yours have less than 2 mm, then you should buy new. As you are looking at the sidewalls of your tires, look for deep cracks or bulges. If either are present, buy new.

Even with new tires, you have to make sure the pressure is right. The correct pressure is usually listed in the owner’s manual, driver’s side door, or on the fuel filler door. Incorrect tire pressure will waste petrol and cause your tires to wear. Also, keep in mind where you are driving. If it is very hot, you may want to have a lower pressure to allow for the air to expand without overfilling the tire. The opposite is true if you will be headed into higher altitudes.

Brake System

Well, you have the car in top rolling condition, now you have to stop it. First, look for obvious leaks, then pop the reservoir. Brake fluid attracts moisture, so look at the color of the fluid. If it looks like maple syrup, the system needs to be flushed. The brake system becomes even more critical if you are pulling a trailer. The extra heat from the added weight could overheat old fluid. Overheated fluid causes a spongy pedal and lots of excitement if you are headed downhill.

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